Sunday, July 5, 2015

Sofitel Metropole Hanoi (2001)


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Sofitel Metropole Hanoi by Andreas Augustin was published in 2001, when the hotel could celebrate its one hundred year anniversary. It is a five-star hotel; the most famous hotel in Hanoi and all of Vietnam. It is one of the most famous hotels in Asia, and in the whole world, similar to the Oriental in Bangkok and the Raffles in Singapore.

Andreas Augustin - a travel writer born in Vienna, Austria, in 1956 - is the author of several books about famous hotels around the world including The Raffles (1988) and The Oriental Bangkok
(2013).

His book about the Metropole is divided into seven chapters which follow a chronological line from the foundation in 1901 until the beginning of the 21st century. Here is the table of contents (slightly modified):

Chapter 1 - A PHOENIX FROM THE SWAMPS

Gustave-Émile Dumontier & André Ducamp: Two Men, One vision

Chapter 2 - THE TURN OF THE CENTURY
The first Years - Colonial Life - A footnote on unrests

Chapter 3 - LA BELLE ÉPOQUE

La Belle Époque postponed - Sober Years 1910-1920

Chapter 4 - LIMELIGHT
White Gold - Somerset Maugham - Noël Coward - Charlie Chaplin

Chapter 5 - The Struggle for Independence

Chapter 6 - 1955-1986 The Long March to Doi Moi

Chapter 7 - ANGELS RUSH IN A New Morning - Après-1987

At the end of the book we have the following items:

** A chronological table: A DIGEST OF TIME

** A list of Who's Who at the Metropole

** A select bibliography divided into four sections:

# 1. Guide Books and Novels
# 2. Encyclopedias
# 3. Periodicals
# 4. Photography, Research Libraries and Archives


Andreas Augustin began his work on the book back in 1997. At the time nobody knew when the hotel was founded, not even the people who worked there. After a while he discovered evidence which showed that the hotel had been founded in 1901. It was fortunate that the book was ready for publication in 2001, exactly one hundred years after the foundation of the hotel.

Each chapter is illustrated with numerous pictures, drawings and maps. For obvious reasons old photos are in black-and-white, while all new photos are in colour. The text and the illustrations complement each other very well.

Andreas Augustin did a lot of work while preparing this book. He looked through memoirs written by people who lived and worked or travelled in Asia after 1901. Some of these memoirs are quoted in the book. He also searched for articles about the hotel and ads by the hotel published in newspapers and magazines since 1901. Some of these articles and ads are reproduced in the book. Even some of the menus are reproduced here.

The history of the hotel is told in these pages. The history of the hotel is placed in a social, economic and political context; and (since this is Vietnam) also in a military context.

The Vietnam War was (and still is) a controversial event. The first war against the French lasted 1946-1954, while the second war against the Americans lasted 1954-1975. The Vietnam War is like a minefield, but I think Andreas Augustin manages to navigate through it without offending anyone. He sticks to the facts. He does not take sides. If his sympathy lies anywhere, it is with the Metropole, and no one can blame him for that.

Many famous people stayed here: the actor Charlie Chaplin and his wife Paulette Goddard. The author Somerset Maugham and the author Graham Greene. To mention just a few names.

During the American phase of the Vietnam War (around 1965) the hotel built a small underground bunker for the foreign guests. It was used by folk singer Joan Baez and actress Jane Fonda. To mention just two names. As it turned out, the hotel was never hit by an American bomb, but other districts of Hanoi were seriously damaged.

When the war ended in 1975, it was time for reconstruction. After 1986 the hotel was renovated. In 1996 a new wing (known as the Opera Wing) was inaugurated. Between the old wing and the new wing we have the beautiful garden with the swimming pool and the famous Bamboo Bar.

The book is well-written. As far as I can see, the information offered by Andreas Augustin is accurate. I noticed only two cases where something went wrong:

CASE # 1 On page 44 we have the following passage:

“‘After a visit to Hanoi one is curious to learn what the French would have done to Singapore or Hong Kong if they had possessed them?’ asked Alfred Cunningham.”

There is no question here, merely a statement, so the question mark should be deleted and the word “asked” should be replaced with “wrote.”

CASE # 2 On page 81 a sidebar ends with the following paragraph:

“Today we owe it solely to the Lumière brothers that this invention [moving pictures] has developed so rapidly. Immediately after their first performance they started to capture scenes all over the world, though creating a priceless movie archive of that time.”

The word “though” is puzzling. It does not make any sense. I think it should be replaced with the word “thus.”

The story of this hotel is in many ways the story of Hanoi and the story of Vietnam. During some periods it is even more than that: it is the story of Asia, and the story of the whole world.

The Metropole is famous not only because of what it was and because of the people who stayed there in the past, it is also famous because of what it is today in the twenty-first century.

If you have stayed there, I think this book will be a wonderful souvenir from your visit. If you have never stayed there, you can still enjoy this book while you think about what it would be like to be a guest at this place. I have stayed there and I can tell you it was an amazing experience. This book tells you how it all began, how it was, and how it is today. It is highly recommended.

PS # 1. As mentioned earlier, the book was published in 2001. But the last chapter was not yet written. Ten years later something happened, and it was time to add a new chapter. When the war ended in 1975 the entrance to the underground bunker was sealed and its existence was soon forgotten. In 2011 it was discovered by chance and because of its historical value it was restored in the following year. Since 2012 the Metropole offers a daily tour about the history of the hotel which includes a visit to the bunker. The tour is free, but you can only sign up for it if you are a guest at the hotel. The tour is very interesting. It is one of many benefits you can enjoy if you decide to stay at this place for a few days.

PS # 2. In 2013 Joan Baez returned to Vietnam, to Hanoi, and to the Metropole, for the first time since 1972. During her stay she revisited the underground bunker that she had used during the Christmas bombings in 1972. While in Hanoi, she painted a painting of a young boy, which she donated to the hotel. It now hangs in the lobby of the old wing, not far from the exhibition called “Path of History.”

PS # 3. The following articles are available online:

** “The Hotel, the Bunker and Me,” by Andreas Augustin, The Most Famous Hotels in the World, 11 November 2011

** “Vietnam War bunker discovered, reopened under luxury hotel” by Gemma Price, CNN Travel, 7 June 2012

** “Joan Baez Circles Back to Hanoi,” by Chris Parnell, Let's Travel Magazine, 9 May 2013

***
 
Andreas Augustin,
Sofitel Metropole Hanoi,
The Most Famous Hotels in the World, 2001, 160 pages
 
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