Sunday, December 7, 2014

The House on the Klong: Jim Thompson (2014)


The House on the Klong - JimThompson


This beautiful book about Jim Thompson’s house in Bangkok – The House on the Klong – was first published by Archipelago Press in 1999. Since then it has been reprinted several times by EDM Books (Editions Didier Millet), most recently in 2014.

It is a hardcover book with a dust jacket. The format is large, ca. 26 x 29 cm. It is lavishly illustrated. All illustrations are in colour except for a few old pictures which were taken during the 1960s. The new colour photos are fabulous, whether the size of the photo is small, medium, or large. This volume can be described as a coffee table book, in the best sense of this term.

Jim Thompson was born in the US in 1906. In the years before the Second World War he worked as an architect. During the war he joined the OSS (precursor of the CIA). He arrived in Thailand in 1945 and decided to stay. He founded a new company in order to revive the Thai silk industry, which was almost dying out, and after a while he decided to build a new home for himself. This task was completed in 1959, and he lived there for eight years, from 1959 to 1967. During a holiday in Malaysia in 1967 he went for a walk, from which he never returned. He has not been seen or heard from again.

His house in Bangkok is actually a compound with several old Thai houses made of wood which form a courtyard and which are surrounded by a garden, known as the jungle. The arrangement is elegant. Remember he had worked as an architect in the US in the 1930s. One side of the plot faces a small alley, known in Thai as a soi; another side faces a canal, known in Thai as a klong, hence the traditional name: the House on the Klong.

Today his former home is a museum which is open to the public. Added facilities include a museum shop and a cafeteria. In the garden you are allowed to walk around by yourself and to use a camera.

To enter the house, you must join a guided tour. Tours are offered in several languages, and they are conducted several times each day. Inside the house you are not allowed to use a camera.

This book is not about his life as a secret agent working for the OSS; and not about his mysterious disappearance in 1967. This topic is covered in other works (see the PS below).

This book is about the man and his house, his garden, and his art collection. The chapters about the house and the garden are written by William Warren; the chapter about the art collection is written by Jean-Michel Beurdeley; the new colour photos are taken by Luca Invernizzi Tettoni.

The text is divided into four chapters. Here is the table of contents:

** Chapter 1. A Man and his House

** Chapter 2. The Garden

** Chapter 3. A Visit to the House

** Chapter 4. The Art Collection

At the end of the book we find a glossary of technical terms and an index. There is no bibliography.

The following biographical information about the three contributors is borrowed from the dust jacket of the book (slightly modified):

** WILLIAM WARREN was born in Albany, Georgia, in 1930, and has been living in Thailand for the past thirty years. He was a good friend of Jim Thompson and wrote the text for the first edition of The House on the Klong in 1968. Warren also wrote several articles and books on art, Asia and other subjects. His books include Jim Thompson: The Unsolved Mystery (1999, 2014), Living in Thailand (1989, 1996, 2006), Legendary Thailand (1987), and The Tropical Garden (2000).

** JEAN-MICHEL BEURDELEY was born into a family of collectors and specialists in Far Eastern art. For more than thirty years, until 1997, he ran the Galerie Beurdeley, and in this time published more than thirty catalogues on Asian art. He also contributed to two reference books: Heritage of Thai Sculpture (1975) and Thai Forms (1980). Since 1998 he has been working in Bangkok as an artistic advisor to museums, foundations and collections.

** LUCA INVERNIZZI TETTONI was born in Turin, Northern Italy. He lived and worked in Thailand from 1973 until his death in 2013. He was a professional photographer who provided pictures for many books, including The Arts of Thailand (2012), The Tropical Garden (2000), and Filipino Style (1997); his work also appeared frequently in Asian, European and American magazines. In 1985 he received the PATA Professionalism Award for his “specific contribution to the promotion of Southeast Asia of Thailand and of Thai heritage and culture.”

On page 55, at the end of chapter 3, William Warren sums up the importance and the legacy of Jim Thompson:

“On March 23, 1967, Jim Thompson left his Thai house for the last time. He was headed for a short holiday in the Cameron Highlands in northern Malaysia, from which he never returned. An extensive search found no trace of him. In Thailand, however, he left behind two lasting achievements: a silk industry that now employs thousands and a house of great beauty where perhaps his spirit still moves among the treasures he loved so well.”

In chapter 4 we learn that Thompson collected several types of art: sculptures made of stone, sculptures made of bronze, sculptures made of wood, ceramics, and paintings. We also learn that the collection suffered on two occasions. The first time was in the beginning of the 1960s (page 75):

“In time, the collection became substantial. But when, in the beginning of the 1960s, Jim Thompson was asked by the Department of Fine Art to give up three large sandstone heads, their loss lead to the end of his large-scale purchases. Irritated, he disposed of many important pieces of sculpture.”

The second time was during the 1980s (page 77):

“Twenty years later, the collection suffered further depredation due to the theft of some bronzes. Sculpture had once been the most important part of the collection, but [now] the emphasis shifted in favor of painting and porcelain.”

One of the stolen bronze figures is shown in an old picture on page 77. Another stolen bronze figure is shown in an old picture on page 84.

“Charming” is not the first word that springs to mind when Bangkok is mentioned. Anyone who has spent a few days in the Thai capital knows there are too many cars and too many people; too much noise and too much cement. I live in Bangkok, so I am keenly aware of this fact.

But there are exceptions to the rule, and one of them is the House on the Klong. Jim Thompson’s House is a peaceful oasis in the midst of the urban jungle. I have been there several times. It is always a pleasure. When a member of my family or a friend from Europe comes to visit me in Thailand, I always take them to this place. It is always a pleasure. They enjoy seeing it, and I enjoy seeing it again. It is, quite simply, a charming place.

Perhaps you have never been to Thailand. Perhaps you have never been to Jim Thompson’s House in Bangkok. But if you see this book, I am sure you will understand why many people seek out this destination. Perhaps you have already been there. In that case, this book will be a wonderful souvenir.

As mentioned earlier, you are allowed to use a camera in the garden, but not in the house. In this book there are pictures of the garden as well as the house. In this book there are pictures of the rooms where you are not allowed to use a camera, and the quality of the pictures is extremely high.

Luca Invernizzi Tettoni was an excellent photographer. With his camera he managed to capture the charming atmosphere and to convey the magical qualities of this place. I like, in particular, the view of the terrace shown on pp. 6-7 and the view of the living room shown on pp. 8-9.

At this point my conclusion is hardly a surprise: the text is well written and the illustrations are, as already stated, fabulous. Text and illustrations support and complement each other very well. It is a pleasure to read and study this book about the House on the Klong.

PS # 1. Several books and articles have been written about Jim Thompson’s life as a secret agent working for the OSS, his life as a civilian in Thailand, and his mysterious disappearance in 1967 (perhaps these three elements are closely connected). One example has already been mentioned above: William Warren’s book from 1999 (reprinted in 2014). To end this review of “The House on the Klong” I will offer two recent titles:

** The Ideal Man: The Tragedy of Jim Thompson and the American Way of War by Joshua Kurlantzick was published in 2011 (271 pages)

** Solved! The Mysterious Disappearance of Jim Thompson, the Legendary Thai Silk King by Edward Roy de Souza was published in 2010 (135 pages)

PS # 2. Jim Thompson farm, located in Pak Thong Chai district ca. 80 km southwest of Nakhon Ratchasima (usually known as Khorat), is open to the public for only one month a year. The current season runs from 13 December 2014 to 11 January 2015. This place is worth a visit, if you are in Thailand at the right time. However, it is difficult to get there by public transport. You will need to have your own car to get to this destination.


* * *
William Warren (text),
Jean-Michel Beurdeley (text) &
Luca Invernizzi Tettoni (photos),
The House on the Klong: Jim Thompson,
EDM Books (Editions Didier Millet), hardcover, 2014, 112 pages
* * *

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