Monday, July 6, 2015

The Oriental Bangkok (2013)






The Oriental Bangkok is written by Andreas Augustin and Andrew Williamson. It is a volume in the series about the most famous hotels in the world.

The team behind the book consists of four persons:

** Andreas Augustin is an Austrian writer, who was born in 1956. He is the author of several books about famous hotels around the world, including Sofitel Hanoi Metropole (2001), The Savoy London (2002), The Caledonian Edinburgh (2003), and The Imperial New Delhi (2007).

** Andrew Williamson is a British writer, who studied history at St Anne’s College in Oxford. He is the author of The Golden Age of Travel (1998).

** Chancham Bunnag helped compile an early biography of the Oriental, An Oriental Album. She was of great help in researching this book.

** Michelle Chaplow is a British freelance photographer. She contributed some of her portraits and still shots for this book.

The first edition of The Oriental Bangkok was published in 1996. Since then it has been revised several times. The latest edition (which has 160 pages) was published in 2013. This edition is under review here.

The book begins with a preface, signed by Andreas Augustin. The main text is divided into eleven chapters, which follow a chronological line from the foundation around 1876 until the beginning of the 21st century. Here is the table of contents:

Chapter 1 – ARRIVAL OF THE ENGLISH GOVERNESS

Chapter 2 – THE LAND OF THE WHITE ELEPHANT

Chapter 3 – GRAND HOTELS OF THE 19TH CENTURY

Chapter 4 – THE RIDDLE OF THE ORIENTAL’S OPENING

Chapter 5 – JOSEPH CONRAD

Chapter 6 – THE CONCEPT OF TRAVEL

Chapter 7 – WHEN NIJINSKY DANCED

Chapter 8 – MODERN TIMES

Chapter 9 – IN ARTISTIC HANDS

Chapter 10 - ITALTHAI

Chapter 11 – NUMBER ONE IN THE WORLD

At the end of the book we find a section called “Who’s Who at the Oriental” and an epilogue. There is no bibliography, no index.

Each chapter is illustrated with numerous pictures, drawings and maps. For obvious reasons old photos are in black-and-white, while all new photos are in colour. The illustrations are excellent. Text and illustrations complement each other very well.

The authors did a lot of work while preparing this book. They looked through memoirs written by people who lived and worked or travelled in Asia during the 19th and the 20th centuries. Some of them are quoted in the book. They also searched for articles about the hotel and ads by the hotel published in newspapers and magazines. Some of them are quoted in the book.

The History of the Oriental
The English governess mentioned in chapter 1 is Anna Leonowens (1831-1915). King Mongkut, also known as Rama IV, hired her to teach his children English. She worked as a teacher in Bangkok for five years (1862-1867).

Her name is controversial in Thailand because of the memoirs that she published a few years later. As the authors explain, “her memories proved to be rather a mix of fantasy and reality.” Several films based on her memoirs have been made in the west. They were all banned in Thailand “due to their real historical inaccuracies and the perceived disrespect to the monarchy” (pp. 18-19).

Anna and her son Louis Thomas Leonowens (1856-1919) never stayed at the Oriental, but they saw it as they arrived on a boat from Singapore in 1862. When Louis returned to Bangkok in 1881, he would often visit the bar of the Oriental (pp. 54-55).

“The Land of the White Elephant” – chapter 2 – is a brief history of Thailand. In this way the history of the hotel is placed in a social, economic and political context.

How old is the hotel? This question is discussed in chapter 4, “The Riddle of the Oriental’s Opening.” The answer is: nobody knows for sure.

A newspaper article from 1863 mentions “a boarding house for sea farers at the river,” but the name of this boarding house is not mentioned. It could be the Oriental. There was no other boarding house at the river at that time.

In 1865 a fire destroyed several buildings along the river, including the Oriental. This time the name of the hotel is mentioned in a contemporary source. So it must have been founded at least five or ten years before that date. But when?

The authors explain:

“During the 1970s the board of the hotel decided to end the uncertainty. They agreed that it would be questionable, not to say inauspicious, to use the burning of The Oriental in 1865 as it’s [sic] founding date. 1976 heralded the opening of the new River Wing and so, putting history to work, the hotel was declared a hundred years old.”

This is the official answer: the hotel was founded in 1876, and this is no exaggeration, because it is older than that. The 125th anniversary of the hotel was celebrated in 2001, and next year, in 2016, it can celebrate its 140th anniversary.

The Oriental is sometimes called the Mandarin Oriental. Why? The answer can be found on page 111. In 1972 the Oriental entered into a partnership with Mandarin International Hotels. Since that year the Oriental has been a part of the Mandarin chain, which operates five star-hotels all over the world.

Many famous people have stayed here: actors, authors, businessmen, politicians as well as royalty: kings and queens, princes and princesses. A list of famous visitors is available in the section called Who’s Who at the Oriental, pp. 138-149.

The list is long and varied. From Graham Greene to Michael Jackson to Queen Elizabeth II of England. One frequent visitor was the English playwright Noël Coward (1899-1973), whose impression of the hotel is quoted on page 35:

“There is a terrace overlooking the swift river where we have drinks every evening watching the liver-coloured water swirling by and tiny steam tugs hauling rows of barges up river against the tide. It is a lovely place and I am fonder of it than ever.”

You can still sit on this terrace and have a drink while you watch the river and the traffic on it. It is still a lovely place. If you have been there, just once, you will understand why Noël Coward was so fond of it.

Flaws

I like this book, but not everything is as it should be. There are flaws here and there. I am a bit surprised about it, because this is not the first or the second edition of the book. The flaws do not concern the history of the hotel. They concern the background information which is offered to give the account a broader perspective. Here are some examples:

(1) A footnote on page 36 mentions Anna Leonowens:
“In 1867, Anne went to live in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, where she became involved in women’s education, and was a suffragette and one of the founders of the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design… After 19 years she moved to Montreal.”

This passage is not quite accurate. Anna left Thailand in 1867, but she did not go straight to Canada. For a while she lived in the US. In addition, she travelled a lot. In 1881, she visited Russia. Only then did she move to Halifax where she was one of the founders of the local college (which was founded in 1887). According to the book, she moved to Montreal 19 years after 1867, i.e. in 1886. But this is not true. She moved to Montreal 19 years after 1881, i.e. in 1900.

(2) For 12 years (1881-1893) the Oriental was owned by three businessmen from Denmark: Hans Niels Andersen, Peter Andersen, and Frederik Kinch. The names appear on pp. 35, 44-45, and 54-55. The first of them is the most famous of them. However, in Denmark his first and middle names are never used. He is known by his initials: H. N. Andersen.

On page 55 we are told that Andersen was ready to sell the hotel, if he could get a good price, because he wanted to return to Denmark. The text continues:

“Andersen was happy to sell. He returned to Denmark in 1897 to found the East Asiatic Company along with I Glückstadt, the founder of Landmans-banken [sic]. Today it is the largest company in Denmark with branches all over the world.”

This passage is most unfortunate. H. N. Andersen and Isak Glückstadt founded the East Asiatic Company (EAC) in 1897, but Glückstadt was not the founder of Landmands-banken. It had been founded in 1871 by G. H. A. Gedalia (1816-1892) and Glückstadt (1839-1910) was the first director of the bank. He served from 1872 until his death in 1910. In 1976, Landmands-banken changed its name to the Danish Bank. In 1990, it swallowed two other banks, after which it became the largest bank, and the second-largest company, in Denmark. It still is.

Under the leadership of H. N. Andersen, the EAC became a large company, but things began to go downhill after World War Two. In 1993 all shipping activities of the EAC were bought by Maersk Shipping, the largest company in Denmark, which has branches all over the world. The EAC is still in business, but these days it is merely a shadow of its former self.

(3) H. N. Andersen appears again on page 87: “… on New Year’s Eve 1937, H N Andersen died in his native Copenhagen at the age of 85.” New Year’s Eve is 31 December. But H. N. Andersen died on 30 December.

(4) On the next page we are told the name of the country was changed in 1939, from Siam to Thailand, “meaning free country.” The name Thailand does not mean Free Country, it means the land of the Thais.

(5) On pp. 89-90 we hear what happened in early 1942 when the Thai government under Phibul Songkhram decided to side with Japan in the Second World War. Seni Pramoj, Thailand’s ambassador in Washington, DC, met with US Secretary of State Cordell Hull and told him that he had an unpleasant duty. He had to give him Thailand’s declaration of war against the US, but he did not want to do it. Cordell responded: “Forget it, Seni, I will not accept them.”

The story about Seni and the Thai declaration of war on the US is famous. It is found in several accounts. But a closer inspection reveals it is a myth. For details, see Thailand’s Secret War by E. Bruce Reynolds (2005, 2010), pp. 19-20.

(6) On page 100 there is a picture of Kukrit Pramoj, who is a brother of Seni Pramoj. According to the caption Kukrit Pramoj was Prime Minister of Thailand “for 13 months.”

This is not true. Kukrit Pramoj was Prime Minister of Thailand from 14 March 1975 to 12 January 1976, i.e. a period of ten months, not 13 months. In the age of the internet, it is quick and easy to check this fact. I wonder why the authors did not do this.

(7) On page 111 there is a cross-reference to pp. 118-120. The cross-reference is wrong. The correct reference is pp. 116-118.

Conclusion
As stated above, I like this book and I want to recommend it, but I am disappointed to see the flaws I have mentioned here. I cannot understand why they were not discovered and corrected after the first or the second edition of the book. Because of these flaws I cannot give it five stars, but since I like it, I will give it four stars.

PS. Full disclosure: I have never stayed at the Oriental, because I live in Bangkok. But I have visited the place several times. I enjoy the terrace by the river as much as Noël Coward did when he was there.

If you have stayed at the Oriental, this book will be a wonderful souvenir. If you have never stayed there, you can still enjoy this book while you think about what it would be like to be a guest at this establishment. I know I do.

***
Andreas Augustin and Andrew Williamson,
The Oriental Bangkok,
The Most Famous Hotels in the World, 2013, 160 pages
***

Sunday, July 5, 2015

Sofitel Metropole Hanoi (2001)


http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/519pXN1529L._SY344_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg
 
Sofitel Metropole Hanoi by Andreas Augustin was published in 2001, when the hotel could celebrate its one hundred year anniversary. It is a five-star hotel; the most famous hotel in Hanoi and all of Vietnam. It is one of the most famous hotels in Asia, and in the whole world, similar to the Oriental in Bangkok and the Raffles in Singapore.

Andreas Augustin - a travel writer born in Vienna, Austria, in 1956 - is the author of several books about famous hotels around the world including The Raffles (1988) and The Oriental Bangkok
(2013).

His book about the Metropole is divided into seven chapters which follow a chronological line from the foundation in 1901 until the beginning of the 21st century. Here is the table of contents (slightly modified):

Chapter 1 - A PHOENIX FROM THE SWAMPS

Gustave-Émile Dumontier & André Ducamp: Two Men, One vision

Chapter 2 - THE TURN OF THE CENTURY
The first Years - Colonial Life - A footnote on unrests

Chapter 3 - LA BELLE ÉPOQUE

La Belle Époque postponed - Sober Years 1910-1920

Chapter 4 - LIMELIGHT
White Gold - Somerset Maugham - Noël Coward - Charlie Chaplin

Chapter 5 - The Struggle for Independence

Chapter 6 - 1955-1986 The Long March to Doi Moi

Chapter 7 - ANGELS RUSH IN A New Morning - Après-1987

At the end of the book we have the following items:

** A chronological table: A DIGEST OF TIME

** A list of Who's Who at the Metropole

** A select bibliography divided into four sections:

# 1. Guide Books and Novels
# 2. Encyclopedias
# 3. Periodicals
# 4. Photography, Research Libraries and Archives


Andreas Augustin began his work on the book back in 1997. At the time nobody knew when the hotel was founded, not even the people who worked there. After a while he discovered evidence which showed that the hotel had been founded in 1901. It was fortunate that the book was ready for publication in 2001, exactly one hundred years after the foundation of the hotel.

Each chapter is illustrated with numerous pictures, drawings and maps. For obvious reasons old photos are in black-and-white, while all new photos are in colour. The text and the illustrations complement each other very well.

Andreas Augustin did a lot of work while preparing this book. He looked through memoirs written by people who lived and worked or travelled in Asia after 1901. Some of these memoirs are quoted in the book. He also searched for articles about the hotel and ads by the hotel published in newspapers and magazines since 1901. Some of these articles and ads are reproduced in the book. Even some of the menus are reproduced here.

The history of the hotel is told in these pages. The history of the hotel is placed in a social, economic and political context; and (since this is Vietnam) also in a military context.

The Vietnam War was (and still is) a controversial event. The first war against the French lasted 1946-1954, while the second war against the Americans lasted 1954-1975. The Vietnam War is like a minefield, but I think Andreas Augustin manages to navigate through it without offending anyone. He sticks to the facts. He does not take sides. If his sympathy lies anywhere, it is with the Metropole, and no one can blame him for that.

Many famous people stayed here: the actor Charlie Chaplin and his wife Paulette Goddard. The author Somerset Maugham and the author Graham Greene. To mention just a few names.

During the American phase of the Vietnam War (around 1965) the hotel built a small underground bunker for the foreign guests. It was used by folk singer Joan Baez and actress Jane Fonda. To mention just two names. As it turned out, the hotel was never hit by an American bomb, but other districts of Hanoi were seriously damaged.

When the war ended in 1975, it was time for reconstruction. After 1986 the hotel was renovated. In 1996 a new wing (known as the Opera Wing) was inaugurated. Between the old wing and the new wing we have the beautiful garden with the swimming pool and the famous Bamboo Bar.

The book is well-written. As far as I can see, the information offered by Andreas Augustin is accurate. I noticed only two cases where something went wrong:

CASE # 1 On page 44 we have the following passage:

“‘After a visit to Hanoi one is curious to learn what the French would have done to Singapore or Hong Kong if they had possessed them?’ asked Alfred Cunningham.”

There is no question here, merely a statement, so the question mark should be deleted and the word “asked” should be replaced with “wrote.”

CASE # 2 On page 81 a sidebar ends with the following paragraph:

“Today we owe it solely to the Lumière brothers that this invention [moving pictures] has developed so rapidly. Immediately after their first performance they started to capture scenes all over the world, though creating a priceless movie archive of that time.”

The word “though” is puzzling. It does not make any sense. I think it should be replaced with the word “thus.”

The story of this hotel is in many ways the story of Hanoi and the story of Vietnam. During some periods it is even more than that: it is the story of Asia, and the story of the whole world.

The Metropole is famous not only because of what it was and because of the people who stayed there in the past, it is also famous because of what it is today in the twenty-first century.

If you have stayed there, I think this book will be a wonderful souvenir from your visit. If you have never stayed there, you can still enjoy this book while you think about what it would be like to be a guest at this place. I have stayed there and I can tell you it was an amazing experience. This book tells you how it all began, how it was, and how it is today. It is highly recommended.

PS # 1. As mentioned earlier, the book was published in 2001. But the last chapter was not yet written. Ten years later something happened, and it was time to add a new chapter. When the war ended in 1975 the entrance to the underground bunker was sealed and its existence was soon forgotten. In 2011 it was discovered by chance and because of its historical value it was restored in the following year. Since 2012 the Metropole offers a daily tour about the history of the hotel which includes a visit to the bunker. The tour is free, but you can only sign up for it if you are a guest at the hotel. The tour is very interesting. It is one of many benefits you can enjoy if you decide to stay at this place for a few days.

PS # 2. In 2013 Joan Baez returned to Vietnam, to Hanoi, and to the Metropole, for the first time since 1972. During her stay she revisited the underground bunker that she had used during the Christmas bombings in 1972. While in Hanoi, she painted a painting of a young boy, which she donated to the hotel. It now hangs in the lobby of the old wing, not far from the exhibition called “Path of History.”

PS # 3. The following articles are available online:

** “The Hotel, the Bunker and Me,” by Andreas Augustin, The Most Famous Hotels in the World, 11 November 2011

** “Vietnam War bunker discovered, reopened under luxury hotel” by Gemma Price, CNN Travel, 7 June 2012

** “Joan Baez Circles Back to Hanoi,” by Chris Parnell, Let's Travel Magazine, 9 May 2013

***
 
Andreas Augustin,
Sofitel Metropole Hanoi,
The Most Famous Hotels in the World, 2001, 160 pages
 
***